German TECHNIDIS tools TECHNIDIS models TECHNIDIS prices

TECHNIDIS tools, also known as hand tools, are distinguished from power tools. They primarily rely on manual force to turn or apply pressure. Hand tools are categorized by application into wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, tape measures, hammers, sockets, cutting tools, scissors, tool sets, and auxiliary items such as tool carts, with each category having different models. Wrenches include open-end wrenches (fixed wrenches), double box-end wrenches, ratchet wrenches (quick wrenches), combination wrenches (compound wrenches), pipe wrenches, T type socket wrenches, cross socket wrenches, and adjustable wrenches; pliers include wire cutters, needle-nose pliers, diagonal cutters, snap-ring pliers, slip-joint pliers, water pump pliers, pipe wrenches, and locking pliers; screwdrivers include slotted, Phillips, Pozidriv, hex, and Torx types; sockets are divided into standard sockets, Torx sockets (E type sockets), driver sockets (BIT sockets), spark plug sockets, and impact sockets. Common specifications include 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2", where " denotes inches; additionally, each specification is available in 6-point sockets and 12-point sockets; hammers are classified into claw hammers, machinist hammers, ball-peen hammers, rubber mallets, and installation hammers; cutting tools include files, diamond files, tin snips, aviation snips, utility knives, square tube saws, pipe cutters, and bolt cutters; materials include chrome-vanadium steel, carbon steel, and alloy steel.

TECHNIDIS tool classification

1) Squeeze-exhaust suction cups rely on downward squeezing force to expel all air from the suction cup, creating a negative pressure state inside to hold the workpiece. Advantages include simple structure, light weight, and low cost. However, the suction force is not strong, making them suitable for workpieces that are not too large in size, thin, and light. 2) Airflow negative pressure suction cups use an airflow control valve to inject compressed air from an air pump through a nozzle, forming a high-speed jet that removes air from the suction cup cavity, creating negative pressure to hold the object. If compressed air is available at the worksite, using this type of suction cup is convenient and low-cost. 3) Vacuum pump exhaust suction cups use an electromagnetic control valve to connect the vacuum pump to the suction cup. When the control valve evacuates air, the air in the suction cup cavity is removed, forming negative pressure to hold the object. Conversely, when the control valve connects the suction cup to the atmosphere, the suction cup loses suction and releases the workpiece. The suction force of vacuum pump suction cups mainly depends on the suction area and the vacuum level inside the cup (referring to the thinness of the air in the inner q cavity). This type of suction cup is reliable and provides strong suction, but requires a vacuum pump and airflow control system, resulting in higher costs. 4) Mechanical clamping: The structure of a straight-bar dual-cylinder translational gripper involves fingers mounted on a straight bar with finger mounting seats. When pressurized gas enters the rod-side chambers of the single-acting dual cylinders, the two pistons move toward the center, clamping the workpiece; when no pressurized gas enters, springs push the two pistons outward, releasing the workpiece. A flow divider valve is installed in the cylinder intake line to ensure synchronized piston movement. This type of end effector is used in loading and unloading assembly stations.

TECHNIDIS tool usage

1) Rip cutting method: When sawing, place the wood on a bench, step on it with your right foot perpendicular to the cutting line, stand straight with your left foot at a 60° angle to the cutting line, keep your right hand perpendicular to your right knee, and position your body at approximately a 45° angle to the cutting line. Lean forward slightly and move naturally, avoiding leaning left or lunging right. Hold the saw with your right hand and place your left thumb against the blade for positioning. Gently pull and push the saw a few times (pull first, then push) to start the kerf, then remove your left hand from the edge. When the teeth have cut about 5mm into the wood, use your left hand to assist your right hand in lifting and pushing the frame saw. Lift lightly, raising the saw hand slightly; push with more force, applying simultaneous effort from the wrist, elbow, shoulder, and waist in a rhythmic manner. This ensures the saw blade follows the cutting line. Otherwise, the edge of the rip-cut wood will be curved or uneven, or the kerf surface will be inconsistent. 2) Cross-cutting method: When sawing, place the wood on a bench, stand to the left rear of the wood, hold the wood with your left hand, hold the saw with your right hand, and step on the wood with your left foot. The sawing method is the same as for rip cutting. When using a frame saw, the lower end of the blade should tilt forward. For rip sawing, the upper end of the blade tilts backward at an angle of approximately 75°—90° (relative to the wood surface); for cross-cutting, the blade tilts backward at an angle of approximately 30°—45°. Always ensure the blade follows the line without deviation. Keep the kerf straight and avoid swaying the blade left or right, which causes skewing. When the wood is nearly severed, stabilize the cutoff piece with your left hand, slow down the sawing speed, and cut completely through. Do not leave any material to break off or snap by hand, as this can damage the blade and cause the wood to split along the grain, affecting quality.

TECHNIDIS tool usage

1) Plane blade adjustment: When installing the plane blade, first fit the blade with the cap iron, controlling the distance between their cutting edges, then insert it into the plane body. Bring the cutting edge close to the sole, add the wedge, and press down slightly. Hold the left corner of the sole with your left hand, using your thumb to secure the wedge, cap iron, and blade. Use a hammer to adjust the blade so that the cutting edge protrudes from the mouth. The amount of protrusion is proportional to the cutting depth: more for rough planing, less for fine planing. To check the blade protrusion, lift the plane with your left hand, sole facing up, and sight along it with one eye. If the protrusion is inappropriate, tap the top of the blade lightly. If it protrudes too much and needs retraction, tap the rear of the plane body lightly. If one corner of the cutting edge protrudes, simply tap the upper side of the same corner of the blade. 2) Planing technique: When planing, extend the index fingers of both hands forward to press on the plane body, press the thumbs on the rear of the blade, and grip the handle firmly with the remaining fingers and palms. Keep the plane body level and apply uniform force with both hands. When pushing forward, increase pressure with both thumbs and apply slight pressure with the index fingers. Gradually reduce pressure as you reach the front end until no pressure is applied. When retracting, lift the rear of the plane slightly to prevent the blade from dragging on the wood surface, which can dull it. When planing long stock, step forward with the left foot, followed by the right. Before planing long stock, determine whether the surface is heartwood or sapwood; generally, heartwood is cleaner and has clearer grain than sapwood. For heartwood, plane from the root to the tip; for sapwood, plane from the tip to the root. Planing along the wood grain saves effort. Otherwise, tear-out may occur, resulting in a rough, uneven surface and excessive effort. When starting a cut, keep the plane sole flat on the wood surface; do not lift the front of the plane. At the end of the cut, do not let the front dip (commonly known as nodding). Otherwise, the middle of the planed surface will bulge, a common mistake among beginners that must be corrected.

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