German KROEPLIN tools KROEPLIN models KROEPLIN prices

KROEPLIN tools utilize electromagnetic technologies such as permanent magnets to assist in mechanical manufacturing processes. They can be categorized into magnetic fixtures, magnetic tools, magnetic molds, and magnetic auxiliary devices. The use of magnetic tools can significantly improve production efficiency and reduce the physical workload of employees. For some workpieces, clamping is inconvenient during machining and assembly due to their structural characteristics. Simply position the U-shaped iron core vertically on the worktable for processing. At this point, by embedding a magnet into the locating block of the fixture, the workpiece can be firmly attracted to the worktable equipped with the locating block and accurately positioned. This greatly simplifies the fixture structure and improves work efficiency. Some products require small parts to be welded onto the workpiece; if accurate positioning is not achieved, it not only makes the work inconvenient but also fails to meet requirements.

KROEPLIN tool types

1) Frame saw. Also known as a rack saw, it consists of an I-shaped wooden frame, twisted rope, twisting pieces, and a saw blade. Both ends of the saw blade are fixed to the frame with knobs, which can also be used to adjust the angle of the saw blade. After the twisted rope is tightened, the saw blade is taut and ready for use. Frame saws are classified into coarse, medium, and fine types based on saw blade length and tooth pitch. Coarse saw blades are 650—750mm long, with a tooth pitch of 4—5mm; coarse saws are mainly used for sawing thicker wood. Medium saw blades are 550—650mm long, with a tooth pitch of 3—4mm; medium saws are mainly used for sawing thin wood or cutting tenons. Fine saw blades are 450—500mm long, with a tooth pitch of 2—3mm; fine saws are mainly used for sawing thinner wood and cutting tenon shoulders. 2) Knife saw. A knife saw mainly consists of a saw edge and a saw handle, and can be divided into single-sided, double-sided, and back-backed knife saws. Single-sided knife saws have a blade length of 350mm, with teeth on one side; depending on the function of the teeth, they can be divided into rip cuts and cross cuts. Double-sided knife saws have a blade length of 300mm, with teeth on both sides; typically, one side is for rip cuts and the other for cross cuts. Back-backed knife saws have a blade plate length of 250—300mm; the back of the back-backed knife saw is straightened with a steel strip, and the teeth are finer, available in rip cut and cross cut versions. 3) Groove saw. A groove saw consists of a handle and a saw blade, with the blade being approximately 200mm long. Groove saws are mainly used for cutting grooves in wood. 4) Panel saw. Also known as a hand saw, it consists of a handle and a saw blade, with the blade being approximately 250—750mm long and a tooth pitch of 3—4mm; panel saws are mainly used for sawing wider wooden boards. 5) Narrow hand saw. The saw blade is narrow and long, with a pointed front end, and a length of approximately 300—400mm. Narrow hand saws are mainly used for sawing narrow holes and slots. 6) Coping saw. Also known as a fret saw, its construction is similar to that of a frame saw, but the saw blade is narrower (approximately 10mm), mainly used for sawing arcs, curves, and other sections. 7) Wire saw. Also known as a bow saw, it is made by bending a bamboo strip into a bow shape, with steel wire stretched between the two ends. Saw-toothed flying edges are chiseled onto the steel wire, using the sharp edges of these flying edges for sawing. The steel wire is approximately 200—600mm long, and the saw bow is 800—900mm long. Wire saws are mainly used for sawing complex curves and cutting holes.

KROEPLIN tool usage

1) Rip cutting method: When sawing, place the wood on a bench, step on the wood with your right foot, forming a right angle with the cutting line. Stand straight with your left foot, forming an angle of 60° with the cutting line. Keep your right hand perpendicular to your right knee. Your body should form an angle of approximately 45° with the cutting line, which is suitable. Lean forward slightly and move gently, but do not lean left or lunge right. When sawing, hold the saw with your right hand and place your left thumb against the saw blade for positioning. Gently pull and push the saw a few times with your right hand (pull first, then push) to create a kerf. Then remove your left hand from the saw edge. When the saw teeth penetrate the wood to a depth of about 5mm, use your left hand to help lift and feed the frame saw with your right hand. Lift the saw lightly and raise the sawing hand slightly. Feed the saw with more force, applying simultaneous effort from your wrist, elbow, shoulder, and waist in a rhythmic manner. This ensures the saw blade advances along the cutting line. Otherwise, the edge of the wood after rip cutting will be bent and uneven, or the cross-section of the cut will be inconsistent top to bottom. 2) Cross-cutting method: When sawing, place the wood on a bench. Stand at the rear left of the wood, hold the wood with your left hand, hold the saw with your right hand, and step on the wood with your left foot. The sawing method is the same as for rip cutting. When using a frame saw for cross-cutting, the lower end of the saw blade should tilt forward. For rip sawing, the upper end of the saw blade tilts backward at an angle of approximately 75°—90° (angle with the wood surface). For cross-cutting, the saw blade tilts backward at an angle of approximately 30°—45°. Always ensure the saw blade advances along the line without deviation. The cut must be straight; avoid swaying the saw blade left and right, which causes skewing. When the wood is nearly sawn through, stabilize the severed piece with your left hand, slow down the sawing speed, and continue until the wood is completely severed. Do not leave any connection to break off naturally or by hand, as this can easily damage the saw blade and cause the wood to split along the grain, affecting quality.

KROEPLIN tool usage

1) When placing the diamond dressing tool head into the holder, be careful not to impact the grinding wheel surface. 2) Do not align the single-point diamond dressing tool head vertically with the center of the grinding wheel; generally, it needs to be tilted by 10-15°. 3) Do not "quench" (i.e., suddenly cool) a heated dressing tool. During dry dressing, maintain sufficient interval time between dressings to allow the heated dressing tool to cool. 4) Do not assume the grinding wheel surface is ideally flat. At the start of dressing, locate the high points on the grinding wheel and proceed with dressing. 5) If possible, the amount removed from the grinding wheel each time should not exceed 0.001 inches on the radius. Excessive removal can cause premature wear and frequent breakage of the diamond dressing tool head. 6) However, do not remove too little material each time. Grinding wheels used on old or poorly rigid machine tools may not require dressing. 7) Note that you should not stay in one position for too long during dressing. This will polish the grinding wheel surface, generate high temperatures, and damage the diamond dressing tool. Rotate the dressing tool at least once a day. 8) Do not continue to use worn or damaged dressing tools. Adjust or replace them promptly. 9) Do not select excessive removal amounts and too fast lateral feed rates during rough dressing, followed by small removal amounts and slow lateral feed rates during fine dressing. This will quickly damage the diamond dressing tool. If possible, it is recommended to use the same lateral feed rate for both rough and fine dressing.

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